Road Tripping Through the Scottish Highlands: Your Guide to the North Coast 500

20171002_bealach-roadThe Bealach Na Ba isn’t for the faint of heart, but the views are worth it.

The North Coast 500 route (NC500) across the Scottish Highlands has quickly established itself as Scotland’s answer to America’s Route 66 (with a few differences of course). The North Coast 500 is a circular route, running 500 miles compared to the 2,000 that stretch from Chicago to Los Angeles on what John Steinbeck dubbed "the Mother Road."

The North Coast 500 was launched in 2014 by the North Highland Initiative, a non-profit organization established by His Royal Highness, Prince Charles, and an affiliation of local groups who were determined to capitalize on the natural beauty of the highlands to boost tourism north of Inverness.

What has so quickly cemented the NC500’s status as a bucket list road trip in the time it’s been established is that the 500-mile stretch is packed with stunning coastal scenery: heather-covered mountains, picturesque lochs, castles, sheer cliffs, windswept moors, white sandy beaches, and rocky peaks that stretch up into the clouds. The coastal route gets more and more popular every year, so now is a great time to try it out yourself. Here’s everything you need to know to prepare for a trip on the NC500.

The Route

Most road trippers on the North Coast 500 follow a clockwise route from Inverness, the capital of the Scottish Highlands. Spending a couple days in Inverness at the beginning or end of the North Coast 500 journey should definitely include an outing to Loch Ness (only 13 miles away) to look for the mythic sea serpent Nessie. History buffs can visit the site of the infamous Battle of Culloden of 1746. The clash lasted less than an hour and was the last battle to be fought in Great Britain.

After taking in a history lesson, head west to Wester Ross. After navigating the challenging, twisting singletrack called Bealach Na Ba, white-knuckled drivers are rewarded with a string of Instagram-worthy lochs: Loch Ewe, Loch Torridon, and Loch Maree. This section alone makes the entire trip worth it. Note: Do not drive RVs or large vans on the Bealach Na Ba.

Continue up the scenic west coast to John o’ Groats (one of the most northerly points in Britain) and through Sutherland. Be sure to get out and stretch on a stopover in northwest Sunderland for clear views of the four rocky peaks of Ben Loyal, known as the Queen of the Scottish Mountains. And don’t forget about the fairytale castles like that of Dunrobin, perched on the shores in the village of Golspie under the shadow of Ben Bhraggie. (Because many highland roads are narrow, with almost no shoulder to park a car, roadside photo ops sometimes require a little planning.) Just down the road are the unmatched sandy white beaches of Achmelvich and Clachtoll.

The scenery at the Black Isle is unforgettable.    Dominik Schröder
The scenery at the Black Isle is unforgettable.
Dominik Schröder

From here, drive across the rugged North Coast to the largely unspoiled Caithness, where the late Queen Mother spent her summer holidays in the Castle of Mey, the most northerly castle on the British mainland that is still visited by His Royal Highness Prince Charles. Next up is Easter Ross, where you can find the Mermaid of the North in Balintore. She’s part of Seaboard Sculpture Trail and rises 10 feet tall above the water.

Another highlight of the trip is the Black Isle, which is actually a peninsula. It’s a quiet area with two nature reserves. The area is a stopping point for the migratory pink-footed geese and is known for its resident bottlenose dolphins.

Finally, drive back down to Inverness, fittingly ending the highland road trip at Inverness Castle.

Best time to go

Plan your trip during the summer for your best chance of avoiding rain.    Robert Haverly
Plan your trip during the summer for your best chance of avoiding rain.
Robert Haverly

May through September is your best bet. The fall in Scotland, especially on the coast, can be rainy.

Where to Stay

With more than 600 options, you’ll find everything from family-run inns, five-star B&Bs, campsites, modest hotels, and castle hotels along the NC500.

Many road trippers stopping for the night in Gairloch on the West Coast spend the night in heated wigwams at Sands Caravan and Camping Park for clear views of the Isle of Skye and the Outer Hebrides.

A popular stop on the north coast is the Inn at John o’ Groats, a 19th-century hotel that’s been fully modernized. Make sure you stop by Stacks Bistro and Coffee House in town before you head out the next day!

Ever want to spend the night in a castle? Then book a room at the 15th-century Dornoch Castle Hotel in the seaside town of Dornoch. There are 22 rooms, each with its own theme, and the castle has a whisky distillery on-site.

To drive the North Coast 500 is to immerse yourself in the most picturesque terrain of the Scottish Highlands. While it’s recommended to take at least 5-7 days to drive the entire 500-mile route, that’s just scratching the service. Settle in for a couple weeks to give yourself more time to explore the mountains, beaches, and villages along the way. If you have enough time to use a town as a base camp, even better – you won’t run out of things to do!

Originally written by RootsRated for Craghoppers.

Featured image provided by Neil H