Exploring Maui in a Vanagon Westfalia is a unique experience. Holoholo is a Hawaiian phrase that means to venture out for adventure and pleasure. Locals will use the phrase in lieu of an actual place. As in, I’m going to holoholo—never speaking of a destination and serving as a reminder that the meaning of travel is not in an arrival, but in the adventures along the way. If you’re searching for holoholo, there is no better way to find it than by renting a Vanagon Westfalia camper van and exploring the island of Maui.
Reminiscent of the 1960s microbuses synonymous with island surf culture, the Vanagon Westfalia is a bit more modern. Like a miniature RV, it includes a pop-top and two double beds, yet remains small enough to navigate many of the island’s famous single-lane roads. It’s hard to find a better way to search for holoholo.
Many Vanagon Westfalia journeys start at the island’s southern edge of Kihei, home to Aloha Campers—a 17-year business that is famous for its fleet of Vanagons. Adorned with a "Live Aloha" bumper sticker and a rainbow license plate, your rental will seem as much a staple on the island as the patchwork of taro fields near the northeastern shore or the Haleakala volcano that rises more than 10,000 feet from the Pacific Ocean. Each van comes stocked with fresh linens, beach towels, and a kitchenette. But more importantly, it gives you the freedom to explore.
The Route
Kristin Wognild
After picking up your Westfalia in Kihei, spend some time exploring the island’s sunniest and driest region, South Maui. Take the Piilani Highway and Makena Road 11 miles south to Makena State Park, marked by its dormant cinder cone Pu’u Ola’i and two scenic white sand beaches. Once you’ve had your fill of bodyboarding with locals, double back and head 32 miles northwest to historic Lahaina and the heart of Maui’s western region. Then take the lesser-traveled Kahekili Highway 21 miles north to the Olivine Pools to explore the rugged coastline (stop and see the Nakalele Blowhole on your way through).
The road here gets too rough for most vehicles, so you’ll have to backtrack down to the small beach town of Māʻalaea, home to the Maui Ocean Center. From here, shoot up Kahekili Highway to explore the east side of West Maui. Take a horseback ride at Mendes Ranch or explore the area on foot along the 4-mile Waihe’e Ridge Trail. Finally, stop in the laid-back town of Pa’ia before hitting the 64-mile Hana Highway. Take your time and explore its plethora of trails, pools, falls, and local farm stands. After camping at the end of the road, backtrack again (the road gets too difficult to pass here as well) and enjoy the sights all over again.
Must-Do Adventures Along the Way
Kristin Wognild
South Maui
Makena State Park is made up of 165 acres and includes two impressive undeveloped beaches. The white sand Makena Beach, commonly referred to as Big Beach, stretches on for 1.5 miles. Surfing, bodyboarding, and swimming are popular activities, but be aware that the shore break can be dangerous during high waves. A short walk on a trail over old lava flow takes you to nearby Little Beach, famous for being Maui’s only place where sunbathing is clothing optional.
West Maui
Lahaina is a historic town that has experienced great transformation. In the early 19th century, the town served as the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom, later becoming a plantation settlement and a whaling hub in the mid-1800s. As many as 400 whaling ships once docked in its port, and author Herman Melville walked its streets looking for work and drawing inspiration for Moby Dick. Today, Lahaina is on the National Register of Historic Places. Stop by the Lahaina Visitor Center in the Old Lahaina Courthouse to get a map for a self-guided tour and take a stroll beneath the country’s largest banyan tree, standing some 60 feet high and spanning an entire city block.
North Maui
The town of Pa’ia is the gem of the North Shore. Originally home to cane fields and the island’s oldest sugar mill, this old plantation village has reinvented itself into an eclectic town of more than 2,000 people. It’s now filled with colorful storefronts and unique boutiques, but still has that laid-back, small town vibe. Grab a cup of coffee at Paia Bay Coffee and head down to Baldwin Beach to hang with North Shore families. Stop into Mana Foods to stock up on snacks for the drive on the Hana Highway.
If you’re hoping to catch an epic sunrise atop the summit of Haleakalā in the heart of Maui, the shortest drive is from Kahului (it’s still about 2.5 hours). Seeing the sun rise here is so popular that you now have to make reservations to get into the park between 3:00 a.m. and 7:00 a.m. Find all the information you’ll need on the NPS website.
East Maui
Nowhere is the notion of holoholo more fitting than on the Hana Highway. The 64-mile road cuts through a coastal rainforest with scenic views of waterfalls, bamboo forests, and a rugged coastline. You’ll face more than 600 curves and cross 59 bridges along the way. While the road is a hands-down highlight of the island, up to 2,000 cars travel this road per day, resulting in a winding snake of cars during early morning and late afternoon rush hour. With the freedom of the Vanagon and a campsite reservation, hit the road late morning and travel at a leisurely place. Take advantage of short waterfall hikes and be sure to stop at one of the many farm stands for warm banana bread and coconut ice cream served in its shell.
Hana Town’s allure comes by way of its isolation. Once a sugar plantation town, all six companies closed by the mid-1940s. Today, the town has around 1,2oo residents that make their living from tourism. A short 12-mile drive from town is the Kīpahulu District of Haleakalā National Park. Here lies Ohe’o Gulch, sometimes called Seven Sacred Pools for the still waters that form beneath a series of falls, a favorite for swimming. (Note: As of July 2017, the pools are closed indefinitely, but all the trails are open. Check the NPS website for updates.) There are several hiking trails, but the 4-mile out-and-back Pipiwai Trail is one of the best hikes on the island. You’ll walk through the bamboo forest and see natural pools and waterfalls, including the impressive Waimoku Falls, cascading 400 feet down a lava rock wall.
Where to Camp
Kristin Wognild
Maui has both public and private campgrounds. The island’s single national park, Haleakalā, includes two vehicle-accessible campsites. The first site, Hosmer Grove, is located at 7,000 feet elevation and is surrounded by a forest. The second, Kipahulu, is located near Hana and overlooks the ocean. No permits are required at either site, and camping is free with park entrance.
The State of Hawaii and the County of Maui offer additional camping sites around the island. Beachside County of Maui sites are $5 for non-residents on weekdays and $8 on weekends or holidays. One of the best state park campsites is at Wai’anapanapa, located about three miles north of Hana. Known for its unique black sand beach, it will cost you $18 per night to stay here. Both state and county options require permits that can be obtained online or by stopping at district offices.
Maui’s two private campgrounds include Camp Olowalu, which is 7.5 miles from downtown Lahaina. There are 35 tent sites that are so close to the ocean, you’ll fall asleep to the sound of crashing waves. The sites here are first come, first-served and currently cost $15. YMCA Camp Ke’anae is the other private option and is about halfway down the Road to Hana. Camp Ke’anae costs $20 for van spaces and requires a reservation. Situated on the Keanae Peninsula, the camp is close to many lookout spots that are perfect for taking that palm tree-framed sunset picture.
Originally written by RootsRated for Craghoppers.
Featured image provided by Kristin Wognild