A Survival Guide to Maine’s Hundred-Mile Wilderness

Originally written for RootsRated

It's the wildest section of the entire Appalachian Trail—and easily one of the most challenging. Stretching from Monson, Maine to Abol Bridge just south of Baxter State Park, the Hundred-Mile Wilderness is a remote and secluded land of mostly untouched forests, towering mountains, snaking streams, glittering lakes, and Lord of the Rings-like bogs and swamps. It's tremendously gorgeous. But it's also a gnarly, rugged, wicked little beast.

You won't find smooth singletrack trails here. Nor will you find switchbacks or footbridges or much of anything resembling civilization save for a few logging roads. The weather is rarely anyone's friend. The mud is thick and omnipresent. And the black flies and mosquitoes are maddeningly relentless, oftentimes appearing in swarms so thick you can barely see five feet in front of you.

But with all this said, for section hikers seeking a true backcountry experience, the Hundred-Mile Wilderness doesn't disappoint. For northbound AT thru-hikers, it offers up one final roll of the dice, a final dose of what sort of wild surprises the trail can throw at you. And for southbound thru-hikers, like I was back in 2013, it delivers a baptism by fire sort of wake-up call to what thru-hiking is all about.

Was I prepared for this monstrous section of trail when I first set out? Certainly not. Then again, can you ever really be fully prepared for the unknown? Well, I won't venture too far down that philosophical rabbit hole, but I will say this: Having some sort vague idea of what to expect when embarking on such a demanding stretch of trail is surely better than the alternative. So, while we won't guarantee you'll make it out of the Hundred-Mile Wilderness completely unscathed, we will say that your chances of doing so are much better if you know a few things before you go. So, here goes nothing:

When To Go

The best time to hike the Hundred-Mile Wilderness is in late June through July. Prior to this, the trail is impassable in winter due to 4-5 foot snowpack in the mountains, and also impassable in early spring due to the meltwater and mud. Early June is prime black fly season—which is essentially unbearable—and later in the summer and early fall, the trail becomes quite crowded with camp groups and northbound thru-hikers. So, the sweet spot is right in that late June, early July window. (Although truth be told, even during this time, you'll likely have at least one good deluge and plenty of black fly bites.)

The Terrain

The following is what I wrote in my journal after the third day in the Hundred-Mile Wilderness:

"Forty-five miles into Maine's Hundred-Mile Wilderness, and I think I've only encountered about a mile of 'trail' all told. The rest has simply been a prolonged series of obstacle courses intent on averting your eyes from the unfolding scenery and focusing them solely on the ground. Even with your undivided attention towards the uneven earth, you still face the high probability of misplacing a foot or slipping on a root or getting a trekking pole stuck in a swampy bog. And have they not heard of footbridges up here? So many river fordings!"

Physical Fitness

In order to get through the Wilderness, you need to be in decent shape. Simple as that. Does this mean you need to be capable of running a marathon? No. (Although it probably wouldn't hurt!) It just means that you need to be in decent hiking shape. You need to know what it feels like to carry a heavy load and to be on your feet for long hours of the day. Once you're out there, you'll likely be out there for 7-10 days. (Unless you're a northbound thru-hiker, in which case it can be closer to 4-5.) So, the enemy here won't necessarily be the elevation or anything like that; it will be the constant nature of it all. Once you're in it, there's no dropping out. You have enough food to last ten days, and if you don't make it out within that time frame, you might be in trouble. So, there are no rest days. If you're feeling exhausted or in pain, you'll need to carry on regardless, and you'll need to be fit enough to do so. There's no other way around it, really.

Protecting Your Feet

This is a big one. It's imperative that you protect your feet, and it's important to know that there's no way to avoid having them get wet. The Hundred-Mile Wilderness is loaded with mud, bogs, lakes, streams, and river crossings (which are inadvisable to ford barefooted). After heavy rains, the trails resemble fast-flowing creeks more than they resemble footpaths. Despite all this, it is possible to keep your feet (relatively) happy. We recommend wearing trail running shoes rather than full-on, over-the-ankle hiking boots. Traditional boots—especially those with Gore-Tex—won't dry fast enough, and there's nothing worse than sliding your foot into a big, sopping, squishy leather boot first thing in the morning. Trail runners will dry more easily and will allow your feet to breathe more. As for socks, you'll want to bring along 3-4 pairs, and it's important to designate one pair as your camp socks, so that you can sleep with warm, dry feet at night.

How to Deal with Bugs

Even in late June (I hiked the Wilderness from June 24-July 1), the bugs are a horrible nuisance. Black flies are the ones that make all the headlines, but the mosquitoes, no-see-ums, gnats, and deerflies are perhaps equally awful. While you're inevitably going to be bitten and bothered, there are preventative measures you can take to ensure you don't go totally mad. A small bug net for your head and face is essential. Simply throw this over hat, and while it won't prevent the incessant buzzing around your head, it will at least prevent some of the more kamikaze-like bugs from flying straight into your eyeballs. Also, pants and long sleeve shirts are a good idea, and an even better idea is investing in insect repellent clothing. Finally, DEET is a must.

Food

The signs upon entering the Hundred-Mile Wilderness warn that you shouldn't attempt this section "unless you have a minimum 10 days supplies and are fully equipped." We tend to agree. While you might be able to complete the 100-miles faster than this time frame, it never hurts to play it safe. Yes, your pack will be a lot heavier as a result, but it will be your insurance policy. As for what food to bring: Breakfast should consist of either oatmeal or granola with powdered milk. Lunch should be snack-like foods like tortillas, peanut butter, trail mix, and maybe cheese if you're willing to carry the extra weight. Dinner should consist of couscous, ramen noodles, Pasta Sides, or freeze-dried pre-packaged meals like Mountain House or Backpacker's Pantry. Additionally, tuna packets are lightweight and offer a good source of protein, and a small bottle of olive oil will provide you with added calories and healthy fat.

One Final Word

Perhaps the best survival tip we can offer is to enjoy yourself. Sure, it might sound cliche, but ultimately, if you take this trip, you're likely taking it on your own free will. So, when the inevitable rain comes or when you slip off a bog log and your foot plunges into the suction-like mud or when the black flies start biting and the mosquitoes start buzzing, it's important to remember that you chose to be here and to remind yourself that there's no place you'd rather be. It's a truly gorgeous part of the country and it's an experience you'll without a doubt remember for the rest of your life.

Featured image provided by John Hayes